Showing posts with label Wood turning Techniques. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Wood turning Techniques. Show all posts
Sprayed Lacquer - Wood turning Techniques
- Pros Easy to apply.
- Quick process.
- 100% adhesion with underlying layers.
- Easy to rub out.
- Cons Not as scratch resistant.
- Low solids content, requires several coats.
Procedure:
1. Use the gloss sheen for the initial coats of finish. If you are applying this finish to unsealed wood the first coat of finish will act as the sealer, spray on two to three even coats. If you are applying it to a surface that has been sealed, spray on two even coats. Allow the finish to dry.
Note: common pigment and gel stains will seal a surface.
2. Lightly sand with 220 or 320 grit paper, wipe any dust from the surface and spray on another coat of the gloss sheen, allow to dry.
3. Depending upon absorption, you may need to repeat the previous step until the surface is smooth.
5.Inspect the surface and repeat the previous step if desired.
7. To rub out the surface, sand it lightly with used 1000 grit paper then switch to #0000 steel wool. Lacquer rubs out very easily, use just enough force to make sure every surface has the same sheen. Thoroughly clean the surface and apply a paste wax or furniture polish.
wood lathe - Danish Oil
Pros Smoothest most easily obtained "perfect" finish.
Easy to repair.
Cons Not as durable as film finishes.
Finish may require periodic maintenance.
Procedure requires lots of elbow grease.
Should not be applied over common pigment or gel stains.
Procedure:
Danish oil is considered to be a penetrating oil type finish. In actuality, the oil does not penetrate very deeply, just a little deeper than typical film finishes. When using this type of finish, there is no need to sand the wood surface with anything higher than 180 or 220 grit sandpaper prior to finishing. In order for this finish to work properly it must be able to penetrate into the wood. It will not be able to do so if you have stained it with the commonly available pigment or gel stains. If you wish to stain the surface you can use a water based dye applied first or use a tinted Danish oil.
This finish is one that even an amateur can apply and achieve excellent results if the proper steps are followed. There are several procedures that are similar to the one outlined below, any of them will work, this is a simplified version. I use Deft Danish oil but the procedure should be the same for all "Danish oils".
1. Even if you wish to use this product as a stain as well as a finish, apply the "natural" color of the product to end grain areas first then the colored version. This will keep the end grain from looking darker than the rest of the surfaces. Apply a very wet coat to all surfaces, allow the oil to stand on the surface for about 30 minutes, apply more to any areas that become dry during this time period. After 30 minutes or if the oil starts to become a little "tacky", wipe it all off.
2. Immediately apply another wet coat of oil to the surface, allow to stand for about 15 minutes or until it starts to become tacky. Wipe all oil off of the surface. The surface will "bleed", or seep oil onto the surface for a few hours after application. You do not want this bleeding oil to harden so wipe the surface down every half hour or so. Open pore woods like oak will bleed more than woods such as maple. Note, the more vigorously you wipe the oil off, the more it will bleed, heat causes this.
3. From now on, you should apply the finish every other day. You may continue to use the tinted version of the product or switch to the natural colored oil at this point. From this point onwards, the oil will be applied with sandpaper. Start with 320 or 400 grit black sandpaper and wet sand the surface using the oil as a lubricant, This will work the oil into the surface and smooth the surface as well. You must wipe all of the excess oil from the surface before it becomes tacky during each application. Continue this operation every other day, switching to a finer grit of sandpaper each time. You can keep this up a long time but the benefits start to diminish after 600 grit.
4. After you have applied all of the oil you want, you may now apply either a coat of lemon oil or solvent wax (Watco) using the sandpaper method. This will become the final finish. As an alternative, you could use a paste wax wiped on with a rag and buffed out. The preferred wax to use will be colored to avoid any white spots.
5.About every year or two, you may wish to apply a coat of the natural finish oil and / or wax to the surface to restore it's sheen.
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Wood turning Finishing Techniques
Introduction
One of the most difficult woodworking tasks for beginners is finishing. There is a bewildering array of finishing products available to woodworkers today but comparative product information is hard to come by. All finishes have certain strengths and weakness when compared to each other. An excellent reference on this subject is Understanding Wood Finishes by Bob Flexner and I highly recommend it.
This article is an attempt to provide you with a few easy finishing procedures to follow and to explain the differences between types of finishes. Instead of an all-encompassing review, these procedures are written expressly for woodworks with little experience at finishing. By following these simple steps, one should be able to achieve a very nice finish on almost any woodworking project.
General Advise
The first procedure of a good finish starts with surface preparation. Sand, scrape, or plane the surface until the surface is free of defects and uniform. The amount of sanding and the grit of sandpaper used can have a significant impact upon the way "stain" will appear on a wood surface. The wood surface should be evenly sanded to a 150 or 220 grit uniform surface. Take care to remove all glue marks and scratches, common stains will highlight these defects. If you have not done much staining you should experiment before applying any stain to your project.
When applying several coats of a film type finish, it is best to apply the gloss version of the product as a base even when a satin sheen is desired as the end product. The satin sheen products contain particles in them to defract light. Many layers of these defractors may make a finish look muddy compared to a finish built up with clearer products.
When sanding the finish between coats, sandpaper is used to remove any large irregularities and to make the finish level. Scotch pads or synthetic steel wool is used afterwards to more uniformly abrade the surface and obscure any scratches made by the sandpaper and to provide a better surface for the following finish layer. As the finish is built up into a more level surface, the grit number of the abrasives used between coats is increased.
It is not a necessity that you use the same finish technique or product on the entire project. For example, assume you chose Danish oil as the primary finish for a chest of drawers. You may use polyurethane or acrylic for the drawer boxes, interior parts, or the applied back. This would save a great deal of time and effort.
Do not apply any stains or finishes in direct sunlight.
If the finish has not dried thoroughly it will ball up or make "corns" on the sandpaper. If this is the case, allow the finish to dry more, continuing to sand and applying more finish on top may degrade the overall finish quality.
One technique I always use is to make a sample board out of cutoffs from the project. With this sample piece I can test different stains and finishes to see how the project will appear when complete. It is also used to test any finishing technique deviations before applying them to the project.
Be sure to read and follow the safety precautions listed on the product container.
Definition of terms:
Polyurethane Refers to oil based products only.
Sheen Surface reflection characteristic, either gloss, semi-gloss, or satin.
Smooth Surface texture, smooth does not mean gloss.
Water Based Refers to water based polyurethane and similar water based products
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